The state symbol of Utah is the beehive because everyone there works so hard. Well. When we got to Moab we could see that the people in the trailer beside the hostel were hard at work berating one another for what fast food item they had or had not picked up. There were dogs, as well, near the trailers. Staying at the hostel proper was a Promethean gentleman about sixty years old with one eye and lots of unsolicited advice. He scared me. I heard he used to live there, but had moved up to Montana or something, someplace that was still cold at that time of year. He came down every morning from his shed with a plastic tub filled with coffee accoutrements. He would then sit in the dining room and drink huge amounts from a french press and tell everyone what to do during the day in the desert. He was a big, voluble man with half a head of hair, an expert on many subjects, like how New England has cornered the market on headstones, and what a racket, too. In the morning, I went downstairs to make breakfast. He found me there in the kitchen and asked where we’d come from and where we were going. Then he said something about my batman t-shirt that made me uncomfortable. I told him where we had come from, and that we were going to Arches that day. I had a hard time looking him in the eye, and wished he had a glass prosthetic or an eye patch. He dispensed some wisdom on the hikes in the area, and I tried to listen, but found I was unable to think of anything other than how he might have lost that eye, and why was he still talking to me. Mr. B. was a better listener than I, and when cornered in a similar manner, learned that the good hike was The Devil’s Garden, and of that the first half was the best – better to turn back than do the loop.
We set off after a while and reached the trailhead at about 11 a.m., when all the real ass hikers were getting back to their cars. The weather was perfectly cool and dry – I guess it was really pretty hot, but I never got used to feeling the heat without humidity. It was cloudy. The first half of the hike was, as the man had said, spectacular. And then it occurred to me as we were crossing a narrow pass atop a sandstone fin, about five feet wide, with a sheer drop on either side, that I was terrified of heights. And not just terrified, but I was brutalized by the terror. We paused mid-way across and looked out over the desert, and Mr. B said, “Isn’t this what they call sublime? This is sublime, isn’t it?”
I would have liked to have said, “Yes, this is sublime! I’m so glad that someone else made that observation and not just me!” However, I was paralyzed by the sublimity and had to sit down for a minute. It was embarrassing. I was aware, as other hikers passed, that I looked like that histrionic woman character that goes on trips with men and spends much of the time drawing attention to herself, having to use the restroom, having a period, that sort of thing, and I was reminded at that moment, as I clutched my knees on the rocks, of a girl I had seen once in the elevator near the cancer ward at Baptist. She was hunched down on the floor facing the corner with her hands up on the rails. A male relative stood looking uncomfortable near the buttons, and her sister was beside her. The sister said by way of explanation, “She’s afraid of elevators.”
I thought, “She’s not afraid of elevators, she’s afraid of whoever’s waiting for her in a hospital room. She’s afraid of illness, of death, of oblivion.” Being afraid of death, it does make it difficult to enjoy life. What was wrong with me, that at such a trite moment I was seized by such a powerful fear, not just for myself, and not just of heights, but for Luke, as well, as he stepped nearer the precipice to take in the view. It was like bad fiction, because in bad fiction critical moments tend to happen on white person activities like kayaking or hiking in national parks. Once when I was at summer camp, I had to cross a log over a ravine to get on with a hike. I had a similar experience then – I was eleven years old, and I was so afraid that I would never see my cat again, and what would he do with out me?! I’ve spent much too long on this moment. I had to get back to Bobo somehow. I stood up, and shamed I went on with the hike and tried not to draw attention to myself. Then my water bottle came open in my bag. I had to stop to empty it out, but it was time for a break anyway. My bag was flooded, my camera was destroyed. I was down to one bottle of water, and I should have invested in a camelbak; only a foole goes hiking in the desert without a camelbak. Not long thereafter we came to the Devil’s Garden where we met a German couple, and Luke hiked off beyond the arch there to observe us from a distance. Although the old man had told us to hike back the way we’d come, we decided to do the primitive loop and see what else there was to see. While the second part of the hike was neither as grand nor as terrifying as the first, it put us down on the ground and gave a better sense of the hugeness and the weirdness of the arches, and the fins and columns. The western sky was dark with thunder heads, and it was almost sickening to be so exposed in an arid region with rain that would not come pummeling at the horizon, maybe twenty-five miles off.
After the hike we went for beers at a brewery and Mr B. ordered a burrito. Mr. B was funny about eating out. He asked the waiter, what was the biggest dish – this or that? What would he find most satisfying? Luke, Mr. W, and I drank beer while Mr. B ate, and later at the hostel we made something for ourselves, some permutation of beans and tortillas, or maybe it was a ramen stir fry. That was what we ate most nights. A young man from Quebec was in our room, he was stuck in Moab because his car had broken down, and we talked with him for a while, and during the night some other kids arrived, but we’d gone to bed early, there being nothing else to do.
In the morning, Luke, Mr. W. and I went to watch the sunrise at Arches, and to eat pancakes. We did both of those things. The trip was still fresh, and we still enjoyed one another’s company, so when the sunlight broke over the sandstone in the east, we were all a little excited. It felt like being young, like seeing dawn at sixteen. The pancakes were expensive the way they are in heavily touristed areas. When we got back to the hostel, Mr. B was just getting up and ready to go, and was upset that we had gone to get pancakes without him, so we went back and watched him eat pancakes before we went to Canyonlands. Of Canyonlands, the one-eyed man had told us that the Maze and Needles were the best, don’t even mess with Island in the Sky. He said, sure you’ll be able to reach those places in your rental car. Not high clearance? Ah, you’ll be fine! You don’t really need it!
We never doubted that he was a buffoon and a horror, and only a foole would have followed such direction. We went to Island in the Sky because it was close and we were obviously inadequately outfitted for the other parts of the park. Let me be clear about island in the sky – I cannot imagine any place on earth more like Laputa. It should not exist. It’s a mesa. It’s so high! At Island in the Sky we watched pretty, curvy, ranger, Sierra Coon, talk on geology. I will now reiterate how sick I felt at the landscape. Formed by the movements of salt beds, by primordial tides, and the shifting of ancient dunes, all of southern Utah lies rotting in the sun as the wind sweeps away the grains and shards of some time far beyond any remembrance.The air, being dry, occluded not the vista, and I watched beyond Sierra Coon’s lovely figure, the earth drop away at the edge of the mesa to reveal great brown maws rent in its surface. The acrophobia I’d discovered the previous day was heightened (hehe) by the vertigo I then experienced while looking down into the canyons.
One of the members of our party had heckled Sierra Coon - I think it was either Mr. B. or Luke, and as we moved along towards the hikes, the guys complained that the program had not been sufficiently in depth. I was like, “Oh plz, d00dz. Ur podcasts are not sufficiently in depth.” Well, that is what I would liked to have said. See, on the trip, I wanted to be agreeable because it was so nice of them to let me along in the first place, seeing as Mr. B had wanted to make a boys trip out of it. Ah yes, the dream. Three or four men together in a car, driving at high speeds through the great American West, listening to philosophy podcasts all the way, being generally manly, and then, oh, love ‘em and leave ‘em – that would be their love song to pretty girls in western towns and campgrounds and hotels. But they couldn’t get a fourth guy, and the car wasn’t cheap, so they got me, and like I said, I tried to be agreeable, because really, what’s worse than a girlfriend tagging along?
The rest of the time spent in Moab was much of the same – precipices, the desert, the one-eyed man. That was my last blog entry – that last night in Moab. And now I will blog the rest, and let it stand as a testimony to a deeply ingrained misogyny felt by even the most liberal minded of men, the caprice and tactlessness of a woman in her twenties, personality disorders, vice, fast food, and many other unpleasant things!